Blink, and you might simply miss it. And maintain your passport in your pocket; you positively gained’t want that. Driving from south to north, you’ll merely see an indication welcome you to the “French Aspect,” and from north to south, the “Dutch Aspect.”
However past the technicalities of division and governance, it’s plain that there’s a particular distinction between these two sides. Sure, each are a paradise, all blue water and white-sand seashores and swaying palms. However the cultures of these two European nations—far-away, throughout the Atlantic—right here combine along with native influences and others that got here by way of on the commerce winds, over the centuries.
All of it makes tiny St. Martin a reasonably fascinating place. Situated within the Leeward group of the Lesser Antilles, this little island holds a Guinness World Document. With simply 33 sq. miles of land space, it’s the smallest inhabited island on the planet to be shared by two completely different nations.
Clean Crusing
On a number of visits right here—together with one very lately—I’ve had an opportunity to discover a lot of its distinct delights. Most journeys right here start on the Dutch Aspect (formally known as Sint Maarten, a constituent nation in The Kingdom of the Netherlands), whether or not you arrive by both sea or air.
If it’s the latter, you land at Princess Juliana Worldwide Airport, which has change into one thing of a YouTube phenomenon. Opened in 1943, it rapidly developed into one of many Caribbean’s busiest airports. The runways sit simply past Maho Bay, and massive planes buzz low on method, simply over Simpson Bay. The jets of these departing blast the seashore.
It’s an irresistible alternative for individuals to assemble, telephones in hand. When the plane swoop down for touchdown, they’ll movie these big wide-body planes—coming in from Paris and Amsterdam—descending simply above the seashore, seemingly shut sufficient to the touch. On take-off, the viewers clings to the perimeter fence, hanging on because the planes rev up for his or her quick journey down the runway.
I spent per week at a resort close by and spent complete days by the pool, which ignored the airport and bay, merely mesmerized by the spectacle. Transfixed by these smooth plane descending low over the water, nearly seeming to kiss the fence earlier than silently touching down, their lengthy journey full. I even memorized the flight schedules and knew whether or not, say, Air France’s huge A330 was late on arrival, or anticipating the blast from KL730’s engines earlier than departure.
However on this go to, I arrived in Philipsburg by sea, rolling in on a cruise ship. I walked down the pier, passing by way of the small cluster of brilliant, colourful retailers arrange simply to service visiting vessels. Then, I took a 10-minute ferry experience throughout Nice Bay to the bustling capital of the Dutch Aspect, set on a broad crescent of seashore some two miles lengthy.
Europe within the Caribbean
It was Christopher Columbus who gave the island its identify—though he by no means truly set foot right here—sighting the island on St Martin’s Day in November 1493. The Dutch arrived in 1631. Sitting midway between their colonial possessions in North America (New Amsterdam) and Brazil, it was a fascinating spot for them to arrange a colony. The French, British, and Spanish additionally established communities, but it surely was simply the Dutch and French that remained.
In 1648, the governors of those two nations signed the Treaty of Concordia, which formally divided the island. Small conflicts over the border endured into the nineteenth century. The Dutch ended up with simply 16 sq. miles of territory, the French with 21 sq. miles.
The French Aspect (formally known as the Collectivity of Saint-Martin) actually appears like France—Marigot, the principle city, could possibly be some small village nestled alongside the Cote D’Azur. Stroll alongside, and also you’ll discover small galleries run by artists who grew bored with the wet Parisian winters and transplanted to those sunnier climes. Additionally, Haute delicacies, ready with basic French strategies, however with contemporary seafood introduced in by fishermen simply at this time. (Suppose: contemporary tuna tartar, brightened with native mango and cilantro, served up on a patio cooled by a salty sea breeze.)
And in every single place, each right here and within the fishing village of Grand Case, the place eating places overhang a protracted stretch of seashore, are the well-known “lolos.” Easy, scrumptious, open-air grills serving up Creole and Caribbean-spiced meals for a cut price value. Johnny desserts and goat stew and garlic shrimp, plus lobster and rooster and ribs. Paired with one-dollar beers, heaped onto paper plates at picnic tables. Good.
On the Dutch Aspect, you’ll discover one thing else fully. And don’t count on any windmills, both. In distinction to the peace and serenity on the French Aspect, Philipsburg bursts with power.
On my most up-to-date go to, I disembarked the ferry and strode the size of the waterfront. In 2017, Hurricane Irma devastated the island, but it surely appeared that the Dutch capital has principally recovered. Waterfront bars boomed out completely satisfied music, and provided offers on deck chairs and buckets of beer. I snapped images of the blue water, strolling out onto a pier for a view again on the grand sweep of the seashore. In a pair locations random individuals stopped me on the street for a chat or a fist bump. “The place are you from?” “What are you doing?” “We’re glad you’re right here,” they informed me.
Entrance Road provided all kinds of duty-free purchasing, and I popped into a pair spots earlier than discovering a small museum on a palm-lined facet avenue. It’s a easy place however, by way of easy shows, offers a pleasant introduction to all issues concerning the Dutch facet—from geology and biology to historical past and politics.
On my means out, I had a fast chat with the curator, Patricia. “Folks come right here for the solar and the seashore, and that’s nice—however they should know that there’s extra to the island than that,” she informed me. I requested what she hopes individuals will take away. She replied, “The friendliness, the welcome, the nice and cozy embrace.”
As I retraced my steps again to the ship, I had definitely felt that, richly. And I vowed to remain longer subsequent time. Lengthy sufficient, not less than, for some Johnny desserts and a little bit of goat strew, contemporary from the lolo.
If You Go
Fly: Along with nonstop flights from Paris and Amsterdam, Princess Juliana Worldwide Airport (SXM) connects the island with quite a lot of North American cities, together with Atlanta, New York, Toronto, and Montreal.
Getting Round: Small, privately owned buses join the principle cities, and whereas schedules might be erratic, driving one offers a really native expertise. Rental automobiles are additionally out there, as are taxis—for the latter, affirm the speed for the journey earlier than getting in. And e-book a tour with an area information to get a real sense of the entire island.
Keep: Rebuilt for the reason that hurricane, Sonesta Ocean Level Lodge is an adults-only, all-inclusive, all-suite enclave. Benefit from the pool, which sits proper subsequent to the ocean, in addition to the (really wonderful) spectacle of jumbo jets descending to the airport.
Take Be aware: Whereas euros are the popular forex on the French facet, U.S. {dollars} are accepted in every single place. And if you happen to don’t communicate Dutch (or French), don’t fear—everybody speaks English.
