For many, Positano is just probably the most romantic and stylish cease on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. South of Naples, the well-known coast is blessed with seashores, sunshine, and picturesque cities spilling down steep hillsides. Many who go to Positano need solely to buy and lay on the seaside. However the tour information in me merely should put a little bit historic and cultural meat in your go to.
“Downtown Positano” gathers round a single pedestrian avenue, tumbling previous wonderful retailers and eating places right down to a pleasant seaside. Whereas Positano’s ceramic and linen industries (Moda Positano) date from the Fifties, they boomed when vacationers found the village within the Seventies. Immediately you’ll discover a lot of these retailers on this avenue, together with galleries that includes the work of native artists (and an abundance of much-used ATM machines).
One other cottage business is sandal making. Native artisans craft leather-based sandals to order whilst you wait—a Positano custom. You drop into a store, choose your design and shade, and get measured. The craftsman makes the sandals, checks the match, and sends you off with a wearable memento in 10 minutes’ time. (If I’m hungry, I’ll stroll in my new sandals over to the great Delicatessen to choose up a picnic to go.)
You’ll additionally see La Zagara, a pastry store with a welcoming terrace. Tempting delicacies similar to “baba” (soaked in rum—a neighborhood favourite) fill the window show. Throughout the lane, Resort Palazzo Murat fills what was as soon as a grand Benedictine monastery.
Strolling previous the gauntlet of native artisans displaying their goodies, you come to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, initially the abbey of Positano’s Tenth-century Benedictine monastery. Constructed within the Romanesque model, it was deserted—together with the decrease city—when pirates dominated. Within the 18th century, when the coast was clear, the church acquired an excessive Baroque makeover. Inside is a wonderful manger scene—so well-liked in Italian church buildings—with its unique 18th-century collectible figurines wearing people costumes of the age.
The Black Madonna icon-like portray above the altar was seemingly introduced right here by Benedictine monks in twelfth century. However locals choose their romantic legend: Turkish (or Saracen) pirates had it on their ship as plunder. A violent storm hit; it was certain to sink the evil ship. Then the portray of Mary spoke, saying “Posa, posa” (“Lay me down”), and the ship glided safely into this harbor. The pirates have been so stricken they grew to become Christians. Locals saved the portray and the city grew to become generally known as “Posa-tano” (after Mary’s command).
Strolling across the church, you come to the entry to an underground Roman exhibit. This spot was the positioning of a Roman villa buried through the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Solely a part of the villa has been excavated, however a small museum offers views of a surviving fragment of a big Roman fresco.
The church above, with its colourful, glazed, Majolica-tile dome, faces a tiny sq. and the seaside. As soon as Positano was a notable naval energy with shipyards alongside this seaside. These finally grew to become fishermen’s quarters after which at this time’s vacationer eating places. Roofs throughout city have the area’s attribute white domes stuffed with sand, a low-tech type of insulation that retains properties heat in winter and funky in summer time.
The Positano seaside is generally non-public (and can value you a reasonably penny for a lounge chair, umbrella, bathe services, and drink service). As is the case with non-public seashores wherever alongside the Mediterranean, whether or not you employ the gear for 10 minutes or 10 hours, the value is similar.
Come again within the night, when the seaside turns into the gathering level for native boys attempting to hustle vacationer women into the stylish Music on the Rocks nightclub. This membership is all that’s left of the Seventies disco scene when Positano actually rocked. Whereas nothing is going on till about 11 p.m., it’s open for drinks a lot earlier. Even these not ensnared within the charms of a neighborhood Romeo can respect its cool, “troglo-disco” inside whereas sipping a dear cocktail.
Now that you just’ve toured the city, go away the vacationers and the hustlers for a well-deserved break. Comply with the locals who hike 10 minutes from the touristy principal seaside, previous a Thirteenth-century fort from pirate days, to benefit from the humble—and cheaper—Fornillo Seaside. Settle in, and savor a pleasant dose of Mediterranean splendor.
