I’ve at all times been a map man. Whilst somewhat child, my fixed companion was an outsized Rand McNally street atlas that I’d haul round the home, curling up on the sofa in the lounge and tracing with my finger the blue strains of interstates, and curling crimson threads of rural two-lanes. I’d sit there and attempt to think about life in all these little dots alongside the way in which.
I used to be the identical with globes, and world maps—I had the latter masking-taped to the ceiling over my mattress. And generally, I might simply lay there and stare into the blue, all that ocean, means on the market. The Pacific, nearly incomprehensibly large, encompassing nearly a 3rd of the earth’s floor. Larger than all of the continents, mixed.
And the little white islands that noticed these in any other case clean, blue areas. I might ask myself questions. What’s occurring on the market? Do folks stay there? If I closed my eyes right here, and opened them there, what would all the things appear like?
Now, I do know—as a result of I’ve been to Mangareva, a part of the far-flung Gambier Islands. You probably have a map close by, take your finger and level it close to the center of the Pacific, simply above the Tropic of Capricorn—and also you’ll be shut. It’s impossibly removed from actually in all places.
Solely Right here
I arrived by crusing there on Aranui 5, a outstanding vessel. Departing from Tahiti on this half cargo, half cruise ship, it took a number of days to cowl the thousand miles that separate the islands. Simply countless ocean. The fixed and unceasing swell of waves touring lengthy distances, a really lengthy journey forward earlier than they attain some distant shore.
After which, out of the blue, on our arrival, a lot sound and exercise. Approaching in certainly one of Aranui’s touchdown craft, a giant, open barge, we might hear and odor the social gathering earlier than we noticed it. Drums and ukuleles. Comfortable singing. The scent of lagoon fish and rooster and beef hearts being barbecued over fireplace, rising in a scrumptious column of smoke. A feast, and a competition, assembled in our honor.
Rikitea, on the island of Mangareva, is the principle city on the Gambiers. The entire island chain is just dwelling to about 1,500 folks—and it felt like each single certainly one of them confirmed as much as greet us this present day. It’s the most distant a part of French Polynesia. (A French lady dwelling within the Tahitian capital, Papeete informed me: “Even for Tahitians, the Gambiers are actually the tip of the world.”)
We disembarked. Small, tented stands offered shell jewellery and different handmade gadgets—I browsed by, had a take a look at the grill, then made my strategy to the village inexperienced. A gaggle of younger girls wearing inexperienced grass skirts and delightful floral headdresses had been getting ready to bounce. The chief introduced: “This can be a dance performed solely on the Gambiers. And right now, we do it just for you.”
They proceeded to carry out a sequence of very small steps, the drums and ukuleles and guitars taking part in them into excessive gear. All collectively they dance, utterly in synch, with a real sense of pleasure. It’s in contrast to something I’ve seen, even in Hawaii or Bora Bora or anyplace else throughout Polynesia.
It’s an indisputable fact: isolation breeds uniqueness. Shaped by historical volcanoes, the Gambier Islands comprise simply 10 sq. miles of land. However they’re thought-about utterly distinct—culturally, geologically, and linguistically—from the 2 closest archipelagos, the Marquesas and the Tuamotus.
It’s a paradise of huge palms and brilliant, blue water, with Mangareva protected by a coral reef enclosing a lagoon with simply three openings to the large, open ocean. Regardless of this, the sooner historical past right here was usually marked by shortage and civil conflict, and even cannibalism. From Europe, British missionaries arrived first, in 1797. As we speak, life is much extra peaceable. Regardless of a pair miles of paved street and some trendy conveniences (together with wifi, and 2G cellular sign), life right here hasn’t essentially modified a lot over the centuries.
Cargo ships arrive twice a month with items for the small supermarkets. Fishing and subsistence farming nonetheless present the staples. Rattling out of the principle city, Rikitea, on a truck tour, a pleasant information sporting a floral headdress and named Manlitahi shared somewhat about her life on Mangareva.
“It is extremely peaceable, tranquil,” she says, in a French accent. We conversed in a mixture of French and English. One other visitor, a Parisian named Lillian who was transplanted to Tahiti, chipped in with translation once we obtained right into a jam.
We handed a pearl farm and vanilla plantations and breathtaking vistas over the lagoon, so many shades of blue. Whereas she has a spot in Rikitea, Manlitahi informed me that life even in that small village is just too busy for her liking. So she prefers her home within the mountains. “Folks up there, they’re kinder, extra peaceable.”
Due to its distant location—greater than a four-hour flight from Tahiti—there aren’t any resorts right here. It’s one of many least-visited locations in French Polynesia, with visitors reserving longer stays in one of many small, charming pensions on the town. Joys are easy, and real. “On the weekends, a snack store opens up,” Manlitahi shared. “They serve hamburgers and steak frites. Everybody enjoys consuming out.”
Quickly, it’s again on the barge, and again on the ship, though the sound of the drums and ukuleles continues as we sail away. Forward lies days of open ocean, within the snug confines of the Aranui. However I do know that each time I see a world map, I’ll assume otherwise about that huge, blue, Pacific expanse. As a substitute of query marks, I’ll image the faces of the dancers, musicians, and Manlitahi, smiling beneath her inexperienced, leafy crown.
Fly: All flights to Mangareva go away from Faa’a Worldwide Airport (PPT) on Tahiti, the principle gateway to French Polynesia. A variety of carriers service PPT from cities in the USA, together with San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle, and Honolulu.
Getting Round: With few roads and no automobile rental companies, your choices are restricted. When you arrive by ship, a truck tour could also be obtainable. In any other case, you might be able to borrow a bicycle or rent a scooter from a neighborhood resident. (The whole lot of the principle village, Rikitea, together with its church with biblical statues adorned with shells and mother-of-pearl, might be seen simply on foot.)
Keep: There aren’t any inns or resorts on Mangareva, so most will keep in certainly one of a handful of small pensions. Or guide a visit on board Aranui 5, which sails right here twice a yr—the rooms are snug, the meals is nice, and the Polynesian crew are pleased to share their tradition with you, day by day.
Take Word: French is the principle day-to-day language right here. It’s useful to study even a number of phrases—a “merci” is at all times a lot appreciated. In addition to the native whats up, “E na koe.”
