New Orleans, in fact, is legendary for its historical past and revelry. “Laissez les bon temps rouler,” the official motto goes—let the great occasions roll. And I’m sure they’re rolling, throughout city, on this Friday night time. From the pounding beats of Bourbon Avenue, throughout the French Quarter, all the best way to that muddy Mississippi winding its large, lazy bends by the center of the Crescent Metropolis.
However I received’t see any of it—not on this go to, a minimum of. On the town for only one night time, I had come for a single function: to catch the prepare the following day. Climbing aboard the double-decker rolling inventory, the chrome steel Superliner glinting within the morning gentle, I bought snug, able to clickety-clack my method all throughout the southern reaches of the USA.
America’s Rails
America’s oldest repeatedly working named prepare, the Sundown Restricted traverses virtually 2,000 miles of observe, all the best way from New Orleans to Los Angeles. Settling into your seat, all it’s essential do is sit again and chill out. Over the course of two days (and two nights), the sights come to you. The journey took me from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific, by Cajun Nation and the Deep South to Massive Bend Nation in Texas and the sun-baked desert of the limitless Southwest.
The route dates again to 1894, when Southern Pacific steam locomotives roared throughout the countryside, coal within the firebox, trailing all-sleeper Pullman automobiles. The route was a part of the Pacific Railroad Acts of 1862, initiated by Congress to open the west by a transcontinental railroad, a feat completed by bond points and land grants. For some time, these trains ran all the best way to Florida and the Atlantic, though immediately passenger service doesn’t lengthen east of New Orleans.
Operated by Amtrak since its formation in 1971, this isn’t a vacationer prepare. It nonetheless kinds an important transit hyperlink for the communities alongside the best way, from tiny cities to main facilities like Houston, San Antonio, and Tucson.
For these accustomed to the grand temples of European prepare stations, the Union Passenger Terminal in New Orleans will appear a moderately easy affair. However as I arrived, I famous an understated model, clear traces, and mid-century trendy design, and massive murals depicting the historical past of Louisiana.
Simply three departures have been listed on the board. The Metropolis of New Orleans, which runs to Chicago, and was made well-known within the people tune of the identical title (recorded by everybody from Arlo Guthrie to Johnny Money and Willy Nelson). The Crescent, which matches all the best way to New York Metropolis. And my prepare—the Sundown Restricted.
Let the Good Occasions Roll
Boarding from one of many station’s 4 platforms, the prepare left proper on time, chugging out of the town and into the center of Cajun nation. There’s a definite and uncommon pleasure in driving a prepare the place there’s no Wi-Fi and solely spotty cell reception. The enjoyment of being obligated to simply chug alongside, the world rolling by exterior your window.
I made a decision to separate my time between three locations: the domed commentary lounge, the eating automobile, and my snug little “roomette,” with large seats that fold down right into a mattress. We rumbled by low swampland and previous small shotgun shacks and massive houses with spreading Southern entrance porches. At one level, we crossed Massive Muddy.
Stops have been principally transient, simply lengthy sufficient to disembark and embark passengers. Conversations within the commentary lounge got here straightforward, everybody simply content material to chit-chat whereas protecting one eye on the surroundings. Along with common folks simply attempting to get to their locations, I ran into a number of prepare fans (or “railfans”), together with two guys who make this journey yearly from their small city in West Texas. They board, and experience to New Orleans. Then with out seeing a single attraction, they experience proper again.
On the second day, the surroundings modified dramatically. The Deep South was behind us. Any more, it will be all large skies. Locations like San Antonio and Del Rio had handed within the night time.
At El Paso, we bought a barely longer break, and I walked alongside the platform to snap a photograph of the town’s skyline, close by. The observe then traced the course of the Rio Grande, and a bit of border wall. Simply throughout—a number of ft away—a complete different nation whipped by, the Mexican houses and retailers climbing rugged ridge traces.
Because the journey progressed, I fell right into a form of trance, the bewitching deserts and delicate motion of the prepare casting a spell. I emerged from my roomette for tasty meals served by pleasant crew within the eating automobile. Then returned to chill out and benefit from the view.
Within the distant southern reaches of New Mexico and Arizona, station stops have been few and much between. The solar set over buttes and sagebrush. Earlier than bedding down for a second night time, I popped off on the platform at Tucson, snapping a photograph of the statue of Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday.
Too quickly, I obtained a impolite awakening at Union Station in Los Angeles. It was nonetheless earlier than daybreak. We had arrived on time—all the time an excellent factor. However maybe a little bit bittersweet, the journey now full. I used to be tempted, just a bit, to hop again on board, like these Texas railfans, and experience all of the again to the Massive Straightforward.
When You Go
Fly: Louis Armstrong New Orleans Worldwide Airport (MSY) receives flights from all main U.S. hubs, and small handful of worldwide cities, together with Toronto and London.
Keep: The brand-new 4 Seasons New Orleans is among the most stunning lodges in the USA, set in a riverside excessive rise that was as soon as virtually deserted. All of it feels very belle époque, with dripping chandeliers and marble bars. Swim within the rooftop pool, then feast on upscale takes on native classics at Miss River.
Take Word: Getting a sleeper cabin (even a small roomette) is unquestionably value it for the two-night journey on the Sundown Restricted. All meals are included, and also you’ll get up refreshed and prepared for one more day on the tracks. E book or plan right here: Amtrak.com/sunset-limited-train
